Growth of surface wind-waves in water of finite depth: A laboratory experiment

نویسندگان

چکیده

This paper reports on laboratory experiment results wind-driven surface waves in finite depth and their comparison with theoretical predictions experimental in-situ studies. We introduce the Miles theory’s extension to case of depth, as well rules transforming expressions formulae commonly used routines, particular important growth rates ones. Wind depend strongly boundary marine layer parameters, namely, aerodynamic roughness length, Charnock constant, drag coefficient. Consequently, this work gives detailed measurements these parameters depths. Experiments conducted IRPHÉ/Pythéas wind-wave tank (Marseille, France), reveal that for a given wind speed, values are higher than deep water. In limit fully developed surface, due empirical formulas relating critical wave age non-dimensional have been experimentally verified. Plots peak frequency, energy, inverse age, against presented. The plots clearly show quantities admit influence. All data obey range established field experiments. Experimental data, obtained facility, agree family depth-dependent rate function depth. growth-rate our laboratory, consistent theory (Montalvo et al., 2013a,b, Latifi al.. 2017), from other laboratories.

برای دانلود باید عضویت طلایی داشته باشید

برای دانلود متن کامل این مقاله و بیش از 32 میلیون مقاله دیگر ابتدا ثبت نام کنید

اگر عضو سایت هستید لطفا وارد حساب کاربری خود شوید

منابع مشابه

The Deterministic Generation of Extreme Surface Water Waves Based on Soliton on Finite Background in Laboratory

This paper aims to describe a deterministic generation of extreme waves in a typical towing tank. Such a generation involves an input signal to be provided at the wave maker in such a way that at a certain position in the wave tank, say at a position of a tested object, a large amplitude wave emerges. For the purpose, we consider a model called a spatial-NLS describing the spatial propagation o...

متن کامل

The spectrum of finite depth water waves

In this contributionwe study the spectrum of periodic traveling gravity waves on a two-dimensional fluid of finite depth. We extend the stable and highly accurate method of Transformed Field Expansions to the finite depth case in the presence of both simple and repeated eigenvalues, and then numerically simulate the changes in the spectrum as the wave amplitude is increased. We also calculate e...

متن کامل

A Numerical Study of the Exact Evolution Equations for Surface Waves in Water of Finite Depth

We describe a pseudo-spectral numerical method to solve the systems of one-dimensional evolution equations for free surface waves in a homogeneous layer of an ideal fluid. We use the method to solve a system of one-dimensional integro-differential equations, first proposed by Ovsjannikov and later derived by Dyachenko, Zakharov, and Kuznetsov, to simulate the exact evolution of nonlinear free s...

متن کامل

Breaking probabilities for dominant surface waves on water of finite constant depth

This paper extends our previous study of the breaking probability of dominant deep water gravity surface waves into the finite water depth environment. It reports a unified behavior of the mean breaking statistics once the effects of finite water depth are taken into account. The shallow water wave data that form the basis of this study were acquired at a field experiment site at Lake George, N...

متن کامل

Generalized Stability Analysis of Wind Generated Surface Water Waves

The shear instability mechanism for generation of surface water waves (Miles 1957) is re-examined in light of the nonnormality of the underlying linear operator. The associated eigenproblem and adjoint eigenproblem are solved numerically and a clarification to previous perturbation solutions of the eigenproblem discussed. The optimal excitation problem is solved in the asymptotic limit t → ∞ an...

متن کامل

ذخیره در منابع من


  با ذخیره ی این منبع در منابع من، دسترسی به آن را برای استفاده های بعدی آسان تر کنید

ژورنال

عنوان ژورنال: Coastal Engineering

سال: 2022

ISSN: ['1872-7379', '0378-3839']

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104174